Recent Posts

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91
General Discussion / Re: Hoop houses
« Last post by Big Kahuna 12 on April 13, 2015, 06:31:19 PM »
This awareness at least tries to identify that in some hoop houses low CO2 is a genuine concern in the morning sun light hours. It is a form of stress to the plant. It slows Vine growth and will affect the size of your plants. Limiting them and their epigenetic potential.
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General Discussion / Re: Hoop houses
« Last post by D Barron on April 13, 2015, 05:36:49 PM »
Will this work in a typical small hoop house 6x8. They are closed at night and opened all day. I'm just trying to see if I would get the benefit from the smaller hoop house/cost?
93
General Discussion / Re: Cell Division of Fruit
« Last post by Pumpkin Shepherd on April 13, 2015, 03:34:15 PM »
I take a few different things away from this....One is we all have to realize how important the first 15 or so days after pollination are. Most of us get excited after day 20 and start to really treat the plant properly when, in reality our fate is already sealed. We have to make sure we look after every single detail during this cell division phase (heating, cooling, water, fert, shade, misting, etc) in order to maximize our potential. In regards to terminating all the growth before pollination, I realize my plants are likely too small to grow something bigger than I usually do (1300 pounds or so). They are usually about 300 sq ft at pollination time and I grow them out to 600 sq ft. I might not be able to grow a bigger one by terminating growth before pollination, but perhaps I can still grow 1300 pounders and be done vine burying by July 1st. :) Maybe for me I'm better to grow the plant a bit bigger and pollinate a week or two later. I've always aimed for an early pollination, but maybe a bigger plant that is terminated during the cell division phase will be better than a pollination 10 days earlier. There's lots of different ways to implement this new information, we just need to decide what to do. Do I try to grow a 1300 pounder on a 300 sqft plant? Do I wait a week or two for a bigger plant, then terminate the growth as soon as I see the female show up and hopefully get to that next level? I'll likely try both, but I will for sure be paying more attention to the call division phase of the pumpkin. Ideally a heated greenhouse with a real early start so I could have a 600 sq ft plant by June 15 is the way to go, but definitely not in the cards for me at this time.
94
General Discussion / Re: AMINO ACIDS
« Last post by Big Kahuna 12 on April 13, 2015, 12:34:20 PM »
Tomato turbo

And

Dutch nutrient formula from home grown hdroponics
95
General Discussion / Re: Hoop houses
« Last post by PWB on April 13, 2015, 12:06:50 PM »
Just a reminder that plants shouldn't be given a CO2 enriched environment during the dark period. 
96
General Discussion / Re: Cabbage and Canada.
« Last post by cowpie on April 13, 2015, 10:54:42 AM »
Not sure if John is growing again this year as his vast estate is on the market and he's looking to another with enough room for an 18 hole course as opposed to the 9 he currently has to "make do" with. I really don't know why he needs 2 tennis courts either. Anyway, I think I did see him sneak out of the GVGO weekend seminar with a cabbage. Don't know if that was for his Polo Ponies or not. He's breeding sheep like he's just bought New Zealand too if you check his Facebook account.

The folks you should be watch is the Hunt's. Wouldn't be surprised if they take John's crown. BTW I'm pretty sure he has a real one. :laugh:
97
General Discussion / Re: Hoop houses
« Last post by cowpie on April 13, 2015, 10:45:01 AM »
Killing two birds with one stone here, you can use a tent heater hooked up to a propane tank. Anything that burns with a blue flame is a good CO2 source. You get the benefit of the heat too. May I also add that those home made yeast -water- sugar are very temperature sensitive. When it's a cold morning and you need that CO2, it just won't be generating much. You'll need a heat source like an electric heater to keep that yeast fermenting.
98
General Discussion / Growing Your Own Benficial Fungi
« Last post by cowpie on April 13, 2015, 10:37:05 AM »
There are lots of good videos about growing your own Mycorrhizae fungi on Youtube (if you don't mind giggling stoners). You can grow it on your own soil or worm castings using sliced oats as a "host". You can then make teas with it to inoculate your plants. There is lots of mycorrhizae in your soil around here due to high organic materials and the leaves (leaf mold) that we work into the soil. I do however add mycorrhizae to my soil inside due to the fact that starter mix is fairly sterile and I want an active colony of mycorrhizae on my root system when I put things outside Hell, I've even spread oats into the soil ahead of my plants to get the roots growing in active cultures.

The thing that did occur to me... Has anyone used the same technique to grow "Root Shield" or "Companion". You could start with a sterile medium, spread your oatmeal and then some Root Shield and grow your own. Would it work? Not sure a company rep. would tell you yes. ;)
99
General Discussion / Re: Cell Division of Fruit
« Last post by PWB on April 13, 2015, 08:36:01 AM »
Perhaps the compromise is to set the 2nd pumpkin and then get busy with your knife.
100
General Discussion / Re: Cell Division of Fruit
« Last post by phunt on April 13, 2015, 05:26:53 AM »
Cell division I understand, but I'm with you Brad. I believe they need to have enough plant to support cell expansion to reach the weights we're looking for. Russ really got people thinking & that is a good thing. We just need to figure out a way to find a happy medium here that will allow the plant to get more cells & be big enough for cell expansion.

Good luck.
Jane & Phil
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